Useful Basic Tools
1. Screwdrivers
A. #2 Flat and Phillips tip screwdrivers. These are for large screws.
B. #1 Phillips and Flat tip screwdrivers. These are for more typical screws.
C. Miniature screwdrivers #0. The blue-handled one has a reversible tip that can also handle flat slotted screws. Plus, it has a rotating end on the handle that allows you to turn screws more easily and accurately, but with two hands.
D. Special situation screwdrivers for cramped quarters. The right-angle screw driver has both #1 and #2 Phillips tipped ends.
E. Ratcheting screwdriver with storage for a variety of tips.
A minimum toolkit that easily handles most chores would include E and the blue-handled C. E is my "go to" screwdriver, as it can tackle almost any screw I encounter. I also like to have B with long shafts to fit in tight quarters when the ratcheting screwdriver is too thick. A flat-tipped, long-shafted screwdriver (A or B) can also useful for prying and levering (especially older computer cases), and even for scraping.
B. #1 Phillips and Flat tip screwdrivers. These are for more typical screws.
C. Miniature screwdrivers #0. The blue-handled one has a reversible tip that can also handle flat slotted screws. Plus, it has a rotating end on the handle that allows you to turn screws more easily and accurately, but with two hands.
D. Special situation screwdrivers for cramped quarters. The right-angle screw driver has both #1 and #2 Phillips tipped ends.
E. Ratcheting screwdriver with storage for a variety of tips.
A minimum toolkit that easily handles most chores would include E and the blue-handled C. E is my "go to" screwdriver, as it can tackle almost any screw I encounter. I also like to have B with long shafts to fit in tight quarters when the ratcheting screwdriver is too thick. A flat-tipped, long-shafted screwdriver (A or B) can also useful for prying and levering (especially older computer cases), and even for scraping.
2. Pliers
A. Smooth-jawed long nose pliers. These are often sold as needle nose pliers. Chain nose are similar but have round jaws.
B. Long nose pliers with serrated jaws. Side cutting and wire stripping sections of the jaw are added functions.
C. Side cutting pliers ("wire cutters")
D. Wire stripping pliers with manual adjustment nut
E. Bent-nose pliers
F. Long-nose locking pliers
A minimum toolkit would include A (which is my "go to" pliers) and B which is heftier and has the serrations on the jaw that give it more gripping power. Unfortunately, serrated jaws can also mar the surface of whatever you grip, so the smooth jaws of A make it the safer choice most of the time. The specific nature of C and D would also be valuable if you have a lot of wire cutting and stripping to do, and C is great when using cable ties. E is particularly useful if, when working inside deep spaces, you need to grip something from the side. I use F when I need to grab onto something larger that I want to turn but can't get a good grip on. Again, beware it's serrated jaws and how they can mar surfaces. Locking pliers can also act as a mini portable vise to hold things together that I need to work on, such as when gluing.
B. Long nose pliers with serrated jaws. Side cutting and wire stripping sections of the jaw are added functions.
C. Side cutting pliers ("wire cutters")
D. Wire stripping pliers with manual adjustment nut
E. Bent-nose pliers
F. Long-nose locking pliers
A minimum toolkit would include A (which is my "go to" pliers) and B which is heftier and has the serrations on the jaw that give it more gripping power. Unfortunately, serrated jaws can also mar the surface of whatever you grip, so the smooth jaws of A make it the safer choice most of the time. The specific nature of C and D would also be valuable if you have a lot of wire cutting and stripping to do, and C is great when using cable ties. E is particularly useful if, when working inside deep spaces, you need to grip something from the side. I use F when I need to grab onto something larger that I want to turn but can't get a good grip on. Again, beware it's serrated jaws and how they can mar surfaces. Locking pliers can also act as a mini portable vise to hold things together that I need to work on, such as when gluing.
3. Testers
A. Outlet tester for power mains (in the wall)
B. Power Supply Testers (inside a computer)
C. Electronic cable tester (and protective black pouch)
If you want to make sure a computer is getting power from the wall, A is a very useful device. It's main purpose is to show you if the outlet is properly wired, but if it lights up properly, it can also simply verify that power is coming out of the wall. These can be purchased very cheaply at most home stores.
The various cables that come out of a computer power supply can be checked with either one of the B devices. The black one is more expensive because it gives you information on an LCD screen, while the silver one uses a series of LED lights to show you the power levels being produced. These are invaluable for determining whether your power supply is performing its duties or needs to be replaced.
The device labeled C above can test five different kinds of cables, and, more importantly, it can do it even if they're installed behind the walls of your room. The small red piece shown can be attached to one end of an Ethernet cable, a telephone cable, a Firewire cable, or a USB cable, and then you can move to the other end of the cable you're testing and plug it into the top of the larger red unit. Pressing the big round button will show you which cables are properly connected and which aren't. The small piece creates a complete circuit on the cable which is why it makes testing in-the-wall cables (e.g. network cables) so easy. The small piece is normally slid onto the bottom of the larger unit, allowing you to conveniently test individual cables anywhere as well. I always use this tester before I set out a replacement cable to make sure it's in good shape. These testers can be expensive, but they're worth having if you really want to check cables thoroughly.
B. Power Supply Testers (inside a computer)
C. Electronic cable tester (and protective black pouch)
If you want to make sure a computer is getting power from the wall, A is a very useful device. It's main purpose is to show you if the outlet is properly wired, but if it lights up properly, it can also simply verify that power is coming out of the wall. These can be purchased very cheaply at most home stores.
The various cables that come out of a computer power supply can be checked with either one of the B devices. The black one is more expensive because it gives you information on an LCD screen, while the silver one uses a series of LED lights to show you the power levels being produced. These are invaluable for determining whether your power supply is performing its duties or needs to be replaced.
The device labeled C above can test five different kinds of cables, and, more importantly, it can do it even if they're installed behind the walls of your room. The small red piece shown can be attached to one end of an Ethernet cable, a telephone cable, a Firewire cable, or a USB cable, and then you can move to the other end of the cable you're testing and plug it into the top of the larger red unit. Pressing the big round button will show you which cables are properly connected and which aren't. The small piece creates a complete circuit on the cable which is why it makes testing in-the-wall cables (e.g. network cables) so easy. The small piece is normally slid onto the bottom of the larger unit, allowing you to conveniently test individual cables anywhere as well. I always use this tester before I set out a replacement cable to make sure it's in good shape. These testers can be expensive, but they're worth having if you really want to check cables thoroughly.
4. Cleanup
A lot of your time may be spent cleaning out accumulated dust and debris in and on electronic equipment. A lint-free cloth (such as the green micro fiber kind shown above) is useful to keep in your toolkit for cleaning the outside and around the case of devices.
Some people like to use cans of compressed air with a skinny plastic nozzle to occasionally blow dust and debris out of tiny crevices, but a data vacuum designed for electronic equipment is a better choice in the long run because it can both blow and vacuum, depending on which end of the cylinder you attach the hose. It eventually pays for itself relative to the cost of replacing spent cans of air. These powered vacuums come with many attachments that can help narrow or re-direct the air stream for tight spaces. Plus, they have filters and an internal trapping system that makes sucked up parts retrieval fairly simple. Some models are also designed to clean up toner spills, which is a very messy job without one.
The blue cylinder with the black handle is a clever device for cleaning monitor screens. It holds a small spray container of the appropriate cleaning fluid for screens in its handle that you apply to the blue fabric on the top. Frankly, you usually don't need anything special to clean a monitor screen. Plain water to dampen a micro fiber cloth is usually perfectly sufficient for cleaning, unless somebody's oily fingerprints are visible. Then, you need cleaning fluid designed for monitors. NEVER SPRAY ANYTHING ON A MONITOR SCREEN! And don't use household cleaners.
I keep a small parts holder handy when I unscrew things for cleaning, or other maintenance. This one came from a Little Bits set, and is very nice, but in the past, I've usually used short cardboard egg cartons with lid removed.
Consider keeping a couple zip-lock bags in your toolkit as well. These can collect and store parts and pieces that you need to take somewhere and want to keep clean or otherwise protected. Very handy!
Some people like to use cans of compressed air with a skinny plastic nozzle to occasionally blow dust and debris out of tiny crevices, but a data vacuum designed for electronic equipment is a better choice in the long run because it can both blow and vacuum, depending on which end of the cylinder you attach the hose. It eventually pays for itself relative to the cost of replacing spent cans of air. These powered vacuums come with many attachments that can help narrow or re-direct the air stream for tight spaces. Plus, they have filters and an internal trapping system that makes sucked up parts retrieval fairly simple. Some models are also designed to clean up toner spills, which is a very messy job without one.
The blue cylinder with the black handle is a clever device for cleaning monitor screens. It holds a small spray container of the appropriate cleaning fluid for screens in its handle that you apply to the blue fabric on the top. Frankly, you usually don't need anything special to clean a monitor screen. Plain water to dampen a micro fiber cloth is usually perfectly sufficient for cleaning, unless somebody's oily fingerprints are visible. Then, you need cleaning fluid designed for monitors. NEVER SPRAY ANYTHING ON A MONITOR SCREEN! And don't use household cleaners.
I keep a small parts holder handy when I unscrew things for cleaning, or other maintenance. This one came from a Little Bits set, and is very nice, but in the past, I've usually used short cardboard egg cartons with lid removed.
Consider keeping a couple zip-lock bags in your toolkit as well. These can collect and store parts and pieces that you need to take somewhere and want to keep clean or otherwise protected. Very handy!
5. Fasteners
A. Cable ties
B. Cable clamps
C. Cable stapler
D. Cable staples
Of all of these, the only one to consider carrying around all the time in your toolkit is probably is a package of cable ties (A). These are useful for tying random cables together under or behind a desk to keep them out of the way. They come in many different lengths and colors. Something between 6" and 12" is a good general purpose length.
If you're planning to run a network cable along a baseboard, or under a window sill, cable clamps (B) are the best long term approach. Each clamp requires one screw to fasten it to a surface, and proper spacing can make a reasonable looking job out of a nuisance situation (i.e. having to run the cable in the first place).
A less permanent solution is to staple the cable in place using a special staple gun (C) designed to drive special staples (D) across the cable. These work best when the surface you're driving into is wood. If the cable is being run completely out of sight (behind a cabinet, for example) and won't be subject to physical damage, staples can be more than adequate for the job.
The other stapler shown has few uses in electronic repair and maintenance as is, but its design is an improvement on squeeze-type staple guns at it concentrates the pressure where the staple is being driven instead of behind it. Some of these may also drive cable staples.
B. Cable clamps
C. Cable stapler
D. Cable staples
Of all of these, the only one to consider carrying around all the time in your toolkit is probably is a package of cable ties (A). These are useful for tying random cables together under or behind a desk to keep them out of the way. They come in many different lengths and colors. Something between 6" and 12" is a good general purpose length.
If you're planning to run a network cable along a baseboard, or under a window sill, cable clamps (B) are the best long term approach. Each clamp requires one screw to fasten it to a surface, and proper spacing can make a reasonable looking job out of a nuisance situation (i.e. having to run the cable in the first place).
A less permanent solution is to staple the cable in place using a special staple gun (C) designed to drive special staples (D) across the cable. These work best when the surface you're driving into is wood. If the cable is being run completely out of sight (behind a cabinet, for example) and won't be subject to physical damage, staples can be more than adequate for the job.
The other stapler shown has few uses in electronic repair and maintenance as is, but its design is an improvement on squeeze-type staple guns at it concentrates the pressure where the staple is being driven instead of behind it. Some of these may also drive cable staples.
6. Extras
A. Ethernet cable extender/connector
B. Double screwdriver
C. Extra Ethernet (LAN) cable and USB cable
D. Extra computer power cable
E. Tester Headset
F. 1/4" audio cable
G. Tape measure
H. LED flashlight
Any of these can be useful at times in your toolkit, but you'll have to decide if you consider them essential. You may not need a hammer, for example, but if you want to re-seat a cable staple, a hammer is nice to have on hand.
I keep A on hand because some of our network cables were originally (and improperly) installed without a wall outlet but instead have the cable itself running through a plate with a hole in it. The connector (A) can be used to extend the cable coming out of the wall. Eventually, I will replace the simple exposed plug with a proper wall port, but in the meantime, these little boxes are very handy.
The double screwdriver shown (B) is a simpler alternative to the ratcheting screwdriver discussed above. The smaller double tips fit into the ends of the silver cylinder, which fits into the plastic handle. You can flip the ends of the tips or the cylinder to get a choice of four screwdriver types and sizes. Some of these can be found that also ratchet.
It never hurts to have a good cable to test against a potentially bad one, or to replace a known bad one, and C, D, and F show the kinds I normally carry. Likewise, the headset (E) can be used to test of audio devices or it can temporarily replace a failed one. Also, because it's a headset (which includes a microphone), it can also test microphone/recording functions on a device.
You may not think a tape measure (G) is useful...until you want to figure out just how long a cable you'll need to reach that printer. On the other hand, a flashlight (H) is ALWAYS useful. I strongly recommend getting one with bright LED light(s) as these last a very long time and are very reliable even when dropped a lot (as I do).
B. Double screwdriver
C. Extra Ethernet (LAN) cable and USB cable
D. Extra computer power cable
E. Tester Headset
F. 1/4" audio cable
G. Tape measure
H. LED flashlight
Any of these can be useful at times in your toolkit, but you'll have to decide if you consider them essential. You may not need a hammer, for example, but if you want to re-seat a cable staple, a hammer is nice to have on hand.
I keep A on hand because some of our network cables were originally (and improperly) installed without a wall outlet but instead have the cable itself running through a plate with a hole in it. The connector (A) can be used to extend the cable coming out of the wall. Eventually, I will replace the simple exposed plug with a proper wall port, but in the meantime, these little boxes are very handy.
The double screwdriver shown (B) is a simpler alternative to the ratcheting screwdriver discussed above. The smaller double tips fit into the ends of the silver cylinder, which fits into the plastic handle. You can flip the ends of the tips or the cylinder to get a choice of four screwdriver types and sizes. Some of these can be found that also ratchet.
It never hurts to have a good cable to test against a potentially bad one, or to replace a known bad one, and C, D, and F show the kinds I normally carry. Likewise, the headset (E) can be used to test of audio devices or it can temporarily replace a failed one. Also, because it's a headset (which includes a microphone), it can also test microphone/recording functions on a device.
You may not think a tape measure (G) is useful...until you want to figure out just how long a cable you'll need to reach that printer. On the other hand, a flashlight (H) is ALWAYS useful. I strongly recommend getting one with bright LED light(s) as these last a very long time and are very reliable even when dropped a lot (as I do).
Hex Keys
A. SAE and Metric Hex Key sets
B. Tamper-proof hex key
A hex key is often called an Allen wrench or a hex wrench, and they describe the same thing. The cross section of the tool is a hexagon and the ends are designed to fit into hexagonally-shaped depressions in the heads of screws and bolts. Using the proper size key is pretty easy to figure out, because if you insert it into the screw head, it should just fit snugly. Any play in its movement means you're using the wrong size of hex key.
Hex keys are sized in two ways: metric and SAE. The former uses numbers to indicate thickness in millimeters, and SAE tools show thicknesses in fractions of an inch. While there are a couple sizes in both systems that work identically in either system, generally the two sizing systems are not compatible. Your screw is designed for one or the other, not both. That's why it's a good idea to have a set of both kinds. A above shows one way that they can be purchased, and if you buy your own, choose sets that lean heavily toward the smallest sizes.
If you look carefully at the end of B, you can see that this has an indentation there. This is an attempt to make the fastener tamper-proof, as only this kind of key can turn the bolt. These came with the mounting hardware for a ceiling-mounted projector. If you end up with these kind of keys, don't lose them!
If you assemble a lot of equipment and furniture, hex keys can accumulate in your tool bag at an alarming rate. All the unlabeled hex keys shown in the picture above came with various kits and products I've assembled over the years. I've had so many that I've also given my artist daughter ones that aren't shown here for her to make little art projects. Generally, one doesn't need to buy hex keys...until you need one that fits the stuff you've put together and is now missing.
B. Tamper-proof hex key
A hex key is often called an Allen wrench or a hex wrench, and they describe the same thing. The cross section of the tool is a hexagon and the ends are designed to fit into hexagonally-shaped depressions in the heads of screws and bolts. Using the proper size key is pretty easy to figure out, because if you insert it into the screw head, it should just fit snugly. Any play in its movement means you're using the wrong size of hex key.
Hex keys are sized in two ways: metric and SAE. The former uses numbers to indicate thickness in millimeters, and SAE tools show thicknesses in fractions of an inch. While there are a couple sizes in both systems that work identically in either system, generally the two sizing systems are not compatible. Your screw is designed for one or the other, not both. That's why it's a good idea to have a set of both kinds. A above shows one way that they can be purchased, and if you buy your own, choose sets that lean heavily toward the smallest sizes.
If you look carefully at the end of B, you can see that this has an indentation there. This is an attempt to make the fastener tamper-proof, as only this kind of key can turn the bolt. These came with the mounting hardware for a ceiling-mounted projector. If you end up with these kind of keys, don't lose them!
If you assemble a lot of equipment and furniture, hex keys can accumulate in your tool bag at an alarming rate. All the unlabeled hex keys shown in the picture above came with various kits and products I've assembled over the years. I've had so many that I've also given my artist daughter ones that aren't shown here for her to make little art projects. Generally, one doesn't need to buy hex keys...until you need one that fits the stuff you've put together and is now missing.
Miscellany
It doesn't hurt to keep some duct tape handy somewhere. You may not want to carry it around, but it may come in handy for those kind of temporary fixes that call for duct tape. You could also consider vinyl electrical tape in the same way.
The masking tape is useful to me for creating write-on labels when I have computers that need some kind of described maintenance, or when I'm recycling computers and I can describe the contents of the unit. (Not shown, but I also still use China Markers for this.) You could use a fancy label maker, too.
I don't usually carry around that pouch of USB drives either, but it's always onsite. These are set aside to hold reset/repair/recovery files for specific computers (e.g. Chromebooks) as well as anti-malware programs like Malwarebytes that I can load into offline computers.
To suggest at this point that I have covered every possible tool you should have in your toolkit would be ludicrous.( For example, I neglected to include the battery tester I use regularly in the picture under Test Equipment.) Nevertheless, those shown on this page are the ones I use regularly in the course of maintaining computers at a school. I could go on to write as much about parts and storage containers alone, but they reflect personal inclinations more than necessity, so I'll leave those up to you.
One area of specific concern, however, involves Printers. I strongly recommend getting a vacuum system designed for cleaning up toner spills. Toner spills inside a printer can be real disasters and often can get so pervasive inside the unit that you can never get it all. Cleaning sheets can be run through the paper path of a printer to help clean it when it's dirty, and if you follow the directions carefully, they can do a good job. Blowing out the paper debris and dust inside a printer can also help it print cleanly for a long time.
The masking tape is useful to me for creating write-on labels when I have computers that need some kind of described maintenance, or when I'm recycling computers and I can describe the contents of the unit. (Not shown, but I also still use China Markers for this.) You could use a fancy label maker, too.
I don't usually carry around that pouch of USB drives either, but it's always onsite. These are set aside to hold reset/repair/recovery files for specific computers (e.g. Chromebooks) as well as anti-malware programs like Malwarebytes that I can load into offline computers.
To suggest at this point that I have covered every possible tool you should have in your toolkit would be ludicrous.( For example, I neglected to include the battery tester I use regularly in the picture under Test Equipment.) Nevertheless, those shown on this page are the ones I use regularly in the course of maintaining computers at a school. I could go on to write as much about parts and storage containers alone, but they reflect personal inclinations more than necessity, so I'll leave those up to you.
One area of specific concern, however, involves Printers. I strongly recommend getting a vacuum system designed for cleaning up toner spills. Toner spills inside a printer can be real disasters and often can get so pervasive inside the unit that you can never get it all. Cleaning sheets can be run through the paper path of a printer to help clean it when it's dirty, and if you follow the directions carefully, they can do a good job. Blowing out the paper debris and dust inside a printer can also help it print cleanly for a long time.
Toolkit Containers
So, what do you put all of these tools into? That's a matter of personal preference. Hardware stores and home centers offer a wide variety of plastic, metal, and fabric tool cases. You can add pouches to the rim of a plastic bucket and turn it into a tool caddy (BucketBoss is one brand of these). Chain art and craft stores like Michael's and Joanne's have interesting tool carriers for a variety of pursuits that can work. And don't forget fishing tackle boxes at sporting goods stores that originally inspired a lot of the designs you see at the other stores. You can also decide if you want something with wheels, or something you could wear like a belt or backpack. The choices are many!
The picture above shows one I built from an article I read in some forgotten source many years ago. I collected pairs of similar sized cans and arranged them along a single length of 2x4. (You need four of your tallest cans that match in height to act as the corner legs). The cat food tin on the top next to the heavy-duty handle could have a couple more added to match on the other side, or you could drill some deep holes to accommodate pencils, drill bits, long screwdrivers, etc. Each can is fastened to the 2x4 with a screw and a washer, and the whole thing is extremely sturdy and has held up for years. Extra washers between the can and the wood act as spacers to accommodate the plastic covers some of these cans use. As you can see, I use it now as a catchall for parts and supplies, but it was originally my main tool carrier. It was simple to build and gets a lot of comments to this day - A creative project for DIYers.
The picture above shows one I built from an article I read in some forgotten source many years ago. I collected pairs of similar sized cans and arranged them along a single length of 2x4. (You need four of your tallest cans that match in height to act as the corner legs). The cat food tin on the top next to the heavy-duty handle could have a couple more added to match on the other side, or you could drill some deep holes to accommodate pencils, drill bits, long screwdrivers, etc. Each can is fastened to the 2x4 with a screw and a washer, and the whole thing is extremely sturdy and has held up for years. Extra washers between the can and the wood act as spacers to accommodate the plastic covers some of these cans use. As you can see, I use it now as a catchall for parts and supplies, but it was originally my main tool carrier. It was simple to build and gets a lot of comments to this day - A creative project for DIYers.
